Разглобяване на мулти волан на Toyota Corolla E12 ?

DML
Мнения: 14
Регистриран на: 05 Окт 2015 13:24
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Разглобяване на мулти волан на Toyota Corolla E12 ?

Мнение от DML » 13 Апр 2019 17:15

Здравейте, интересува ме дали някой знае как се свалят/разглабят пластмасите около бутоните на мулти волана на Corolla E12 фейслифт ( комби е, но мисля че това няма значение в случая) .
Благодаря ви предварително за отговорите.


DML
Мнения: 14
Регистриран на: 05 Окт 2015 13:24
Местоположение: София

Разглобяване на мулти волан на Toyota Corolla E12 ?

Мнение от DML » 13 Апр 2019 22:15

Може и аз да не се ориентирам добре из схемите, но ме интересува специално, тая пластмасария около бутоните как се маха?
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memorex

Разглобяване на мулти волан на Toyota Corolla E12 ?

Мнение от memorex » 13 Апр 2019 23:33

Като не ти е ясно предполагам няма и да ти стане ясно.Но,за щастие има хора дето им е ясно и за това им плащат.Това е истината колега.

DML
Мнения: 14
Регистриран на: 05 Окт 2015 13:24
Местоположение: София

Разглобяване на мулти волан на Toyota Corolla E12 ?

Мнение от DML » 14 Апр 2019 06:52

Благодаря ти, ориентирах се и се справих в крайна сметка. Все пак никой не е роден учен. Явно ти си изключение...колега.

memorex

Разглобяване на мулти волан на Toyota Corolla E12 ?

Мнение от memorex » 14 Апр 2019 14:04

След бърза проверка в Гугъл.Даже има и снимки но не мога с тях да го копирам.Работа за 1мин.без изискване на изкл.възможности.

Materials Needed:

Toyota Corolla S Clockspring: 84306-0E010
Toyota Corolla S Steering wheel controls: 8424702040
Toyota Wire Terminal Kit (3): 82998-24290 (stereo side)
Old CD-ROM Analog Audio Cable from used computer store or if you have any lying around. (3)
19 mm socket
12 mm socket
T30 Torx Screw
Screwdrivers
Tiny tiny screwdriver
18 Gauge Wire (Preferably Red, Black, and White). Probably need about 2-3 feet each.
Wire Crimper or Soldering Iron
Wire Crimps or Solder
Long long long spool of wire
Panel Remover
Magnetic tool to grab screws (may be useful).
Blue Painter's Tape
Pen
Flashlight
Digital Multimeter
3+ hours
Patience

Instructions:

Step 1:
Park your car and keep the steering wheel straight, make sure your wheels are pointing straight.

Step 2:
Disconnect the negative terminal of your battery tape it to the side of the fusebox to prevent it from making contact. The wire is connected to the battery via a 12 mm nut.




Step 3:
Wait 90 seconds...I waited 15 minutes. This is to let the car completely discharge. You want this before you mess with the airbag.

Step 4:
Apply blue painter's tape to the top of the steering wheel and the column and draw two arrows pointing towards each other. This is to make sure you have the right alignment.




Step 5:
Remove the bottom panel, the one closest to your knees. There are two screws on the very bottom one on the left and one on the right.

Step 6:
Carefully remove the bottom cover of the steering column. You can stick a panel removal tool through the headlight stalk and the windshield wiper stalk and carefully pry this off.

Step 7:
Do the same to the top steering column cover.

Step 8:
Pop the 2 covers on the side of the steering wheel. The right cover is where the cruise switch is sticking out of.

Step 7:
You will see two T-30 torx screws in here. Using the T-30 tool, unscrew these as much as you can. Please note that they will not come all the way out, that's ok. This loosens up the airbag for removal.

Right Side:



Left Side:



Step 8:
Remove all wires leading to the airbag. To remove the Orange and Black air bag wires, you must first pry up the yellow tab to release the grip and then you will be able to actually remove the airbag wires.




Step 9:
You will notice a ground wire connecting to the bottom of the airbag remove this wire and all the wires attached to it. You will notice that it has 3 plugs, 1 for the cruise control, 1 for ground, and 1 that attaches to the clockspring. We will be replacing the ground wire with the ground from the steering wheel control switch. It's blue on the steering wheel control switch. Hold on to this, we will come back to this once we are done with the airbag.

Step 10:
Place your airbag with the Toyota Logo facing up in a safe area where it will not be disturbed.

Step 11:
Look at the same wire harness from step 9. Find the plug that connects to the top of the clockspring. If you turn it around you should see that the plug has a small latch which can be pried up with a small screwdriver. Once you have done this, you can freely pull the ground wire out. Make sure you close the latch again.




Step 12:
All that's left should be the clockspring and the steering wheel. Now get that blue painter's tape, and make sure you tape the clockspring all around so that it doesn't turn. You want to preserve your original clockspring in case you screw up. Once you have thoroughly taped the clockspring, you can remove the steering wheel. Once again, we are replacing the clockspring because the LE clockspring only has two plugs (airbag and cruise control) vs the S clockspring which has 3 plugs (airbag, cruise control, and steering wheel control).

Step 13:
The steering wheel is bolted on with a 19mm nut. Make sure you get the appropriate tools to remove this. Once you have removed the nut, gently rock the wheel back and forth until you can pull it off.

Step 14:
Redo any tape that has fallen off the clockspring from all your tugging.




Step 15:
You will notice that the clockspring has several more plugs attached to it. All on the bottom of the unit.
Remove all 3 of them carefully. Don't damage any wires. The yellow ones are the airbag, so be careful! The black one is where we will be plugging in our steering wheel controls, and the one in the far back I haven't figured it out..maybe a steering wheel angle sensor?

The white plug was too far in to picture properly.



Step 16:
The clockspring is attached via 3 clips. One on the left, one on the right, and one on top. Aftermaking sure your blue tape is secure, carefully undo these clips and your clockspring should come right off.

Step 17:
After taking a moment to admire your handiwork and the delicate clockspring, examine the back of the clockspring, and you shall see a protrusion coming out of it where one of the plugs had been plugged into. This protrusion is part of a circular assembly that is clipped onto the back of the clockspring. I believe this might be the steering wheel angle sensor. Carefully remove this assembly by unclipping the latches. You are done with your original clockspring, put it somewhere safe. Do not remove the blue tape. If you ever break your clockspring you can atleast fall back to your original.

Step 18:
This is also the point where you can replace your headlight/wiper stalks with the intermittent wipers or the foglight headlight stalk.

Step 19:
Take your new clockspring, and tape it up in a similar fashion. Notice that the orange pin keeps it from moving. You will be breaking off the pin in the near future.

Step 20:
Attach the unclipped assembly noted in Step 17 to the back of your new clockspring.

Step 21:
Attach your new clockspring to where the old one used to be. Make sure all 3 latches get latched into place.

Step 22:
Remove your Stereo by first removing the trim on the top and on the bottom with a panel removal tool.
I believe there is a DIY somewhere in this treasure trove of 10th gen corolla knowledge.

Step 23:
Unbolt the 4 bolts bolting the stereo down.

Step 24:
Pull out your stereo and note the 20 pin connector on the back of the stereo.

Step 25:
Grab your spool of wire and measure a fair amount of wire (with some slack) from the bottom of the clockspring to the back of this 20 pin connector. Do this 3 times, so you will have 3 wires.

Step 26:
Solder or crimp the Toyota terminals on these 3 long wires and redirect your attention to the clockspring. Using a multimeter check to see that the wires have a good connection with the terminals. If not.....try connecting them again. For those who do not know how to check. Clip one test lead from the multimeter to one end of the wire, and the other test lead to the other end of the wire. If you see a resistance value measured, it means there it is a good connection.

Step 27:
Examine your long CD-ROM audio cable and pry up the clips (break them for all I care) to take out each of the 3 pins. The reason why we use this cable is because I could not find the right Toyota part number. It's not the same pin as in Step 26. However I did figure out that it uses the same pins as whats in this CD-ROM audio cable. But anyway do this to each side so that you have 3 pins exposed on each side of the wire.

Step 28:
Locate the 12 pin connector and have the clip facing down and look at where the wire harness is entering it.
The pin numbers will be left to right, bottom to top. So the bottom row will be 1 – 6, and the top row will be 7 – 12. Plug one CD-ROM audio pin into pins 4, 5, 6. You can do this in the same manner you did the airbag ground pin in Step 11. Make sure you latch it back on after plugging the pins in.

Step 29.
Route the three wires down your steering column and behind the stereo. It would be great to have some cable ties to tie these wires to the existing wire harness. You should strip the ends of the wires with the Toyota wire repair kit crimped on it. This stripped end should connect directly to the pins of the CD-ROM audio cable. Heat shrink it, tape it, just make sure the connection is good.

Step 30:
Take the 20 pin connector for the back of the stereo and turn it around until the latch is facing up and you are staring at where the wire harness enters it. Read that again while looking at your plug, sometimes its hard to visualize. From left to right, the top row is 1-10 and the bottom row is 11-20 also left to right. In the same manner as what you did in Step 11 and 28, loosen the plug so you can attach the wires.

Step 31:
Pay attention!!!!!
The wire from pin 4 of the clockspring 12 pin plug has to go to pin 6 of the stereo 20 pin plug.
The wire from pin 5 of the clockspring 12 pin plug has to go to pin 8 of the stereo 20 pin plug.
The wire from pin 6 of the clockspring 12 pin plug has to go to pin 7 of the stereo 20 pin plug.
Latch the plugs back up and reconnect them to their appropriate holes.

For reference, I used the following diagrams:










Step 32:
Grab the steering wheel and unscrew the left ornament where your steering wheel controls will go, and put the steering wheel controls on and screw it in.




Step 33:
Break off the giant orange pin on the clockspring, and make sure it doesn't turn. Place the steering wheel back on and hopefully the alignment isn't whacky. Notice that the steering wheel has grooves that will fit into the clockspring. Once you've bolted it back on, you may now connect all the plugs.

Step 34:
The steering wheel control now plugs into a center hole on the top of the clockspring as mentioned earlier. The ground wire now comes from the steering wheel control as opposed to the cruise switch.




Step 35:
Plug airbag wires back in, screw in the T-30 torx screws and pray that everything worked out right.

Step 36:
Reconnect your battery negative terminal.

Step 37a
If you have a remote starter like me, stand far away from the vehicle and start it up.

Step 37b.
If you don't have a remote starter, grab a friend to watch you and be ready to call for help if when you start the car the airbag malfunctions and does bad stuff to your face and car.

Step 38:
Assuming your airbag didn't detonate, go test out your steering wheel controls, and put all the panels back in your car and clean up. You're done!!!

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